Cracked Out Board

   I feel like I can never go anywhere without something strange happening. This morning Kyle and I went to the beach (once again) the earliest we're ever gone together. We're both sick with a cold, which I gave him, so waking up at 4 AM was harder than usual for the both of us. But I actually love getting up early and making something out of my mornings. When we drove over the bridge the bay looked like actual glass and the moon was still pretty high up in the sky. And then on the other side of the sky there was so much color way before the sun had even started to show. No matter how many times we've driven over that bridge, everytime feels just as much, if not more magical than the last.

   So the sun rises and a whole bunch of other surfers show up of just about every age. I sat on the sand as Kyle was out in the water when I saw someone who looked pretty out of place from the rest. While everyone was wearing wetsuits, the guy that had caught my eye was in a rash guard and basketball shorts with his crack showing proudly. And he had a doo-rag on! He spoke to the surfers around him who I could tell by their body language had no clue who he was. I started to watch him as he went into the water and not only did I notice him struggling to get out there, but I saw that he didn't have a leash on his board nor was it waxed, so I was guessing this was just something he was trying out on a whim. Kyle came at the perfect time to see him. We just let him do his thing and continued on with the morning.

   About a half an hour later it's like, I wanna say 8-ish, Kyle and I sat where all of our belongings were and we saw the guy walk up from the shore and back to his red duffle bag. Only thing missing was his board, and Kyle and I noticed right away. We thought he may have lost it out in the water, when suddenly he started trudging over to us, still soaking wet and looking absolutely drained. Kyle and I both saw him coming our way so we tried to do the whole "act natural" thing. The guy speaks up and goes "Ya see that board on the sand all the way down there?" and he points west all the way down the beach near the lifeguard stands and when we reply with yes, he gasps for air and goes "i'm leaving it here, i'm never trying this shit again! I nearly drowned out there!!! I yelled for help but no one could hear me. Take the board, i'm sticking to longboarding." and all of a sudden our faces lit up. And then the guy continues, "I bought if off a crackhead who needed his fix, he said $20 and it's all yours, so I gave it a shot". May I say that this was probably the WEIRDEST thing I've ever heard!! After him saying one more time that he's "never trying this shit again", we thanked him and ran for the board. We stood before it and there it was; a rundown, cracked Bunger surfboard. Definitely fit the features for the conditions it had been sold under. But we grabbed it anyways and now it's all mine! We didn't even get to catch the guys name or anything about him, besides that we could assume he was eager to try surfing. I love the story behind it more than the actual board. The whole situation was too classic I just knew I had to take it. Besides, it was free so why not, right? So there ya have it, that's the story behind my not so brand new, hand-me-down, crackhead history filled surfboard that I love so damn much!! Thank you for my board whoever you are!!!!